How to Build Deck Railings

Deck railings, or better known as railings, alone are essential for both the aesthetic appearance and the safety of the deck. ‘Beauty and Strength’, both are the key factors in making the deck railing.

Deck railings must be made to satisfy the local requirements code. For example, the rail on a deck should have a height of minimum 36″ and must not be having any gaps larger than 4″. The railing must be securely fixed to the edge, rather than to the surface of the deck. A fancy deck that is still in accordance to your confined construction codes can be used to make your deck railing attractive. The following is a general procedure to make a deck railing.

Procedure

Consult with your plans for the deck to resolve the positions of the fence posts. Beside the joist header and the outer joists, mark the position of each and every post by making use of a four-sided figure. Stain both sides of each and every post, which must be 4″ spaced out.

If the deck exterior overhangs the surface of the floor framing, with the help of a reciprocating saw or a handsaw, cut the deck’s notches so that all the posts are made to fit squarely, along the deck structure.

Calculate the proper stature of the posts of the railing. If the complete stature is assumed to be 36″, 1 and a 1/2 inches should be added from your side on the edges of the deck and usually 5 and a 1/2 inches of sides should be added on the deck. All the deck railings are cut squarely to extent with a saw.

If carefully done, they will result for a more attractive and stable finish. Measure the base upwards 7″. Set the circular saw about to a deepness of 1 and a 1/2 inches and slice the post at the point. Then, slice every half to the end of the wooden post. Use a chisel and hammer to clear the notch.

Drill the post and their base with a pair of depressions for the insulate bolts. After drilling the holes in the base of every single post, about 1/2 inch deep by means of a better fragment to sink the insulate secure heads of the bolts.

Installing the railing can be done using a pair of lag bolts for each. A socket wrench is used to place them in correct position. Use 2×4 lumbers, cut after measuring the above base and install them the apex of the screws in the posts. While installing each baluster, it is better to run them along the frame of the deck or a sub railing can be used to support the balusters from the bottom.

After measuring the distance among each and every collection of posts, analyze how many balusters will be required to maintain equal distance among all of the balusters that are not supposed to be greater than 4″ separate. Locate the points where each baluster is located in the lower railing and top railing. Calculate and slash the balusters near the edges.

Using the above procedure to create deck railings, you should meet completion within a variable amount of time.

How to Build a Shed

If you have never experienced building a shed, this may seem like an overwhelming project. The strong sturdy base of the shed is the most important, once that is up and running, everything else should be easier. Building the base can be difficult for a single person to complete. I would recommend having someone help to build the base.

If building in your backyard or personal property, there should be no need for any permits or licenses of any kind.

Planning

• Select a clear area for the place you would like to build your shed in.
• Natural light is a must if you intend to work in your shed, off and on, at day/evening hours.
• You will need a power source if you will be running any sort of electricity.

It would be best to place your shed on a flat concrete surface pad. If you cannot build a concrete pad, make sure the earth’s surface where the shed will be placed has been leveled. If not properly leveled, the shed will be uneven or lopsided.

Required Tools

• Pegs and string
• Building sand
• Standard cement
• Timber for base framework
• Tape measure
• Spade sweeping brush

Wood is the most common element to use when building a shed. When buying the wood, you should check for knots, dents and warps, as these things will not be good for your shed.

Tips/Steps to Build Your Shed

• When building a shed, think of a box, this is essentially what a shed is; just a four sided box with a peaked top.
• Once the choosing of the lumber and the laying of the base surface down is complete, here comes the easy part.
• A simple shed can take the shape of a lean-to with one large slanted wall nailed to three smaller walls on the side.
• If you feel confident in your building skills, then a more complicated shed would be a four-sided rectangular shed with a pitched roof.
• To attach the roof, nail the slanted slabs of wood to the upright walls.
• To finish the project, apply a preservative treatment and any insulation or electric wiring that is needed.

No more keeping all of your tools and equipment outside, leaving them to the elements and prone to rust. No more tripping over the lawn mower on the way out of the garage.

It is really worth taking some time to go down to the hardware store and starting this wonderful addition to your home

Get Rid of Grass Stains

How do you get rid of grass stains that have blemished a garment of clothing?

Anyone that has tried removing a grass stain understands what a nightmare it can be, so I put together this article to explain exactly why grass is such a stubborn stain and some simple steps you can use to get rid of them.

Why Are Grass Stains So Difficult To Get Rid Of?

The first thing to understand is that grass stains are only difficult to get rid of on garments that are made of natural fibres such as cotton, wool or silk.

Grass stains on garments made from synthetic or man-made fibers are much easier to remove – a normal cycle in the washing machine should do the trick.

However, the chlorophyll (that creates the green pigment) and proteins in grass bind strongly with natural fibers. Without going into too much scientific detail, this is because they are both natural, organic substances. In fact the chlorophyll even acts as a kind of natural dye.

Getting Rid of Grass Stains

The most important thing to understand when getting rid of a grass stain is that you MUST pre-treat the stain before putting it in the washing machine.

Simply put, this means dabbing the stain for a few minutes using a light-colored sponge or flannel (darker sponges and flannels may make the problem worse if the dyes run) and one of the solutions listed below. I have listed multiple stain-removal solutions because there is more than one way to remove a grass stain. The list is ordered by what I have found to be the most effective at the top and the least effective at the bottom.

• Liquid dishwashing detergent or washing-up liquid (such as Fairy Liquid) – The best way to get rid of a grass stain in my experience. Apply it neat to the stain.
• Toothpaste - Has worked almost every time I have used it. Rub toothpaste neat into the stain.
• White Vinegar – This has worked for me about 75% of the times I have tried it. Create a solution of 1 part white vinegar and 2 parts water and use it to blot the grass stain.
• Rubbing Alcohol/Surgical Spirit – I’ve never used this method myself but many people have written to me to say it works really well. Dilute the alcohol with water and blot the grass stain.
• Soap - Another one I’ve not tried but seems to be very popular. Just wet a bar of soap and rub the stain with it.

There are other chemicals that are said to work equally as well such as hydrogen peroxide but I would have reservations about effectively ‘bleaching’ an item of clothing unless, perhaps, it was white.

After applying the solution, put your garment straight into your washing machine (do not rinse first). This will allow the solution to continue working as your washing machine fills up with hot water.

Also, ensure you wash it at the highest temperature you can get away with for that particular garment (always read the label).

If you have any of your own tips for getting rid of grass stains, I’d love to hear them – please use the ‘comments’ section below to share your own techniques.

How to Get Rid of Skunk Smell

Skunk smell is definitely the most notorious and disgusting smell there could ever be and when you or your pets get skunked, the next best thing you should do is to know how to get rid of skunk smell. Skunks use their anal scent gland to protect themselves from other animals.

They also have two glands on each side of the anus that produces mercaptans, which is composed of chemicals such as methyl and butyl thiols. Skunks excrete fluids with foul odor that could even reach fifteen feet and is effective in keeping off potential attackers. When the skunk produces its defensive weapon, it would absolutely be a difficult task to remove the stinking odor and knowing how to get rid of skunk smell will relieve from such problem.

How to get rid of skunk smell only needs a mixture of 3% hydrogen peroxide or 1 liter white vinegar, ¼ cup baking soda and liquid detergent soap. Hydrogen peroxide is effective in breaking down the odor-causing chemicals while baking soda neutralizes the odor. Liquid detergent soap can dissolve the oil from the secreted fluid and can also give fragrant smell. Use vinegar for de-skunking furniture or carpet because hydrogen may cause bleaching. This solution is not only effective for de-skunking persons but animals as well.

Baking soda is also an effective way on how to get rid of skunk smell. Apply baking soda in your skin, or in the carpet and furniture where foul odor is concentrated. Wash for at least three times all the cloths and fabrics that have also been skunked.

Tips on how to get rid of skunk smell wouldn’t be complete without the mixture of 10% bleach and 90% water. The basic premise is that chlorine bleach is very toxic and it can effectively eliminate foul odor. For the same reason, this solution is not applicable to people, animals or colored clothing. Apply it only for things where bleach can be used like garages or porch.

Always keep in mind these simple steps on how to get rid of skunk smell. If you have pets, do not let it stray alone so that skunk wouldn’t be threatened. If you can see a skunk, do not make any move that will threaten it. Instead, slowly walk away and leave the skunk alone. In that way, you can prevent being skunked. If unfortunately, you get skunked, just keep in mind these simple reminders on how to get rid of skunk smell.

How to Get Rid of Crab Grass

Lawn and garden enthusiasts everywhere are plagued by the problem of crab grass growing rapidly. Crab grass is one type of weed that is commonly found in lawns and gardens, although it mainly thrives in hot and dry conditions. It is an annual weed, which explains why it sprouts roots that quickly outnumber the grass and plants in your lawn.

Crab grass has a slightly different color than normal grass, which makes it stand out in a perfectly manicured lawn and makes it look unkempt. What's worst is when crab grass patches turn brown, totally destroying the look of your garden or lawn. Some gardeners may tell you that it is almost impossible to get rid of crab grass entirely, but there are actually a few ways that are guaranteed to eliminate it from your garden.

During the winter or colder months, crab grass dies on its own. It falls with the first frost, but can grow back during the spring from seeds of the previous patches. As such, you must do everything to prevent crab grass seeds from getting stored in the soil, as they grow quickly once spring comes.

Below are a few ways that you can control crab grass growth in your lawn or garden. One main thing you have to know is that crab grass dislikes healthy soil, so if you keep your lawn or garden healthy, it will be hard for crab grass to grow. Another important thing is that you need to act quickly—once you see a patch of crab grass, remove it as soon as possible to prevent it from spreading.

Beauty Is Only Soil Deep

As with other weeds, the primary way to get rid of crab grass is to prevent it from growing at all. You can do this by maintaining a regularly cared-for lawn or garden. If your garden or lawn is beautifully manicured, it means that it is healthy. To manicure your garden or lawn takes time and effort, but it is not without reward. If you make sure that your normal grass patches are thick enough to cover your yard, the crab grass will not have room to grow.

Without sunlight, crab grass seedlings aren't able to take root. As such, it is wise to keep your grass growth between two and one half to three inches high. Properly mow your lawn, and keep the length of your garden grass at a constant to maintain a healthy lawn or garden.

Persistence Is Virtue

Once you see a patch of crab grass, try to remove it as soon as possible. If you leave even the smallest of crab grass patches unattended, they will quickly turn into a bunch of flowers with spiked seeds sprouting from the center. This flower bunch produces the seeds that germinate into seedlings, each of which then grows into adult crab grass patch.

Do not let this happen or you will be in for more grief. Keep watch of the weak spots in your lawn or garden, such as areas beside the pavement, as they are prone to contracting crab grass. Remember, keeping watch of your garden is a good way to prevent crab grass patches from multiplying and taking over your lawn. Crab grass is highly fertile such that a small patch can turn into a full-blown growth anytime, so be wary of it.

Digging and Hoeing

Digging and hoeing your lawn or garden are two surefire ways to kill crab grass patches. When the roots of crab grass are exposed to air and sunlight, they quickly dry out and die. As such, it is a good plan of action to dig and hoe through the areas of your lawn or garden that have crab grass growth.

Aerate your lawn or garden periodically, as this will keep the soil healthy. Crab grass, like other weeds, is allergic to healthy soils. Before digging and hoeing through your garden, soak the area with water first. This will loosen the soil, making it easier to remove crab grass from its roots. Make sure to dig out the entire root system of crab grass patches, as new root systems can grow from leftover ones.

Health Is Wealth, But Not For Crab Grass

As was already mentioned, crab grass does not grow well in healthy soils. For this reason, it is helpful to maintain the fertility of the soil in your lawn or garden. The best way to do this is to regularly fertilize and water your lawn or garden. Pair this with utmost care and attention for your lawn or garden, and you are all set for a perfect season.

Once you have applied fertilizer to the soil, dig and hoe through it regularly to further prevent crab grass and other weeds from taking root in your garden. You can then proceed to removing crab grass patches, either by hand or with the use of gardening tools. After you have removed crab grass patches, you need to mulch the soil to prevent any small roots from growing in the future. Even the smallest crab grass roots can take seed and ruin your garden or lawn, so be wary of them.

Herbicides are the Last Resort

When it comes to dealing with crab grass, the use of chemicals should always be your last option. There is no herbicide formulation that kills only crab grass, so be careful in using herbicides. Keep in mind that other plants in your lawn or garden are vulnerable to herbicides.

You can also apply preventive or pre-emergent herbicides, but you need to know how they work first. You need to have proper timing—if you apply the herbicides too early, the effects will quickly fade, allowing the crab grass to take hold in the future; on the other hand, if you apply the herbicides too late, the crab grass might not be affected by it.

Removing crab grass from your lawn or garden is very difficult, but it is not a hopeless case. You need to have patience and persistence, and the necessary knowledge to fight and prevent the growth of crab grass patches. In the end, all your hard work and effort will be well compensated by a beautiful garden or lawn.

How to Get Rid of Grass Stains

Your kid is out in the lawn, wearing a clean t-shirt you laundered just yesterday. After a few hours of running, tripping, and laughing, he comes in with a big smile on his face and grass stains all over his clothes. Before you can start yelling, he hands you a small flower. Oh well. Your anger might have faded away quickly, but those grass stains aren't going to.

Of the many laundry dilemmas moms encounter, grass stains are among those that currently come up. Whether they come from gardening, picnicking, or playing, these green marks always bother people. Grass stains often include various components, including organic matter, protein, grasses' juices, chlorophyll, and stable pigmented compounds like carotenoids and xanthophylls. They bind to fabric's natural fibers closely, making them very difficult to remove. Not only that, grass stains always have mud mixed in them, causing them to look more unpleasant.

Dealing with grass stains is never a picnic, but there are some ways to make it easier for them to be removed. Here are a few methods you might find helpful.

Use Powder or Liquid Detergent

Putting your clothes in the washer is the most common tactic many people turn to, but it won't work properly unless you use a good liquid or powder detergent. Find one that contains bleach and enzymes that work to remove grass stains specifically, like Tide. Its unique cleaning solvents are guaranteed to fight stains effectively and efficiently.

Get some detergent, place it directly on the affected area and scrub as hard as you can. Let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes, and then rinse with water. If the stain isn't fully taken out, don't fret. Just repeat the procedure, until no more mark remains.

Digestive Enzymes Can Do The Trick

Yes, the enzymes you see sold in health food stores can solve your grass stain dilemma in a thrice. Digestive enzymes like acidophilus react well to remove grass stains. First, brush off any remaining dirt or grass fibers from the fabric. Make the enzyme paste, by mixing a teaspoon of the enzyme (you can get this in caplets) and a small amount of water. Spread this onto the stain, while working it into the fabric using a cloth or toothbrush. Allow it to sit for an hour, then wash the clothes properly. You'll see all the grass stains are gone.

The Alcohol And Water Pre-Rinse

Rinsing the cloth before working on it also helps loosen the stain faster. Of course, you need to rinse using the right materials, in this case water and Isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Get a sponge and wet the affected area with the rubbing alcohol. Allow it to air dry, and once it is, rinse it with cold water. Put some liquid detergent into the stain, rubbing it in properly, then rinse with cold water. Let it air dry again, then wash the item again, until the stain completely fades.

Vinegar Works

Vinegar is used by many people as a natural bleach, and is very effective in removing easy to difficult stains, including grass stains. First, pre-treat the stain with white vinegar and warm water. The alcohol-water rinse mentioned above also works well. After pre-treating, rub the water-vinegar mixture directly into the stain. Another tactic is using ammonia and vinegar. Replace the warm water with ammonia and combine with vinegar. Follow the same steps above. Your clothes will be clean again.

The Hydrogen Peroxide And Bleach Solution

Everyone knows about the wonders bleach can do for laundry tasks. It also performs well on grass stains. Mix it with hydrogen peroxide, and you've got one heck of a cleaning solution. Even the worst grass stains will be gone after you try this tactic: first, mix equal amounts of peroxide and bleach together, then mix it to three parts cold water. Put this directly on the stained cloth, and allow it to sit for about an hour. Afterwards, rinse it normally. Your clothes will be free of the unpleasant green stains.

Grass Stains On Concrete

Although clothes and fabric are the most common victims of grass stains, they're not the only ones. Grass can also get on other surfaces, like concrete. For example, you walk across a grassy lawn, then step inside your concrete home, without removing your shoes. The green marks will immediately be tracked onto the concrete floor. Shoes, tires (on driveway concrete), and pet paws can track the stains all over the concrete. You can't use the methods you used for clothes for this dilemma, but there's an effective solution you can try:

• Scrape away excess grass and dirt.
• Put glycerin directly on the stain using a clean rag, and rub gently to lubricate residual stain material.
• Prepare a solution composed of one gallon water, 1/4 cup of washing soda and 1/4 cup borax. Apply this to the stain using a nylon bristle brush, scrubbing with moderate pressure.
• Rinse the brush regularly, then refresh the cleaning solution when you deem it necessary.
• Flush the affected area with clean water to remove cleaning solution residue and dislodged grass. Blot the excess water with clean newspaper after.
• If the stain remains, repeat the procedure again.

To help you avoid stains in the future, try using protective mats and refreshing the sealant of your concrete. This also makes stain removal easier. Remember, the base materials and surface treatments of concrete can vary, so it's safer to try this method in a small, inconspicuous location first, before doing it to the whole area. Another tip: Wear work clothes, safety gloves and protective eyewear when doing this procedure. The solution has chemicals that might be harmful to you.

When grass is green, it looks beautiful, but the same cannot be said when it stains your clothes or your concrete surfaces. If you ever encounter this unpleasant dilemma, just try any of the tactics above, and your grass will then stay outside, instead of being all over your possessions.

How to Get Rid of Gasoline Smell

The smell of gasoline is pungent and causes a series of effects adverse to your health. The moment the liquid spills on your car, body, or carpet, its stench will remain for days, until a proper solution is applied. Soap and water won't do much against gasoline smell, so you have to apply special measures. Good thing such remedies are not hard to find. A visit to the kitchen or the hardware store should do the trick.

Effects of Gasoline Fumes

Before dealing with the removal of gasoline fumes, you should know what it can do to your health. The fumes, once inhaled for long periods, can damage your respiratory system, particularly your lungs. They can also affect your brain, causing hallucinations after prolonged exposure. Gasoline smell is clearly dangerous, so you should get rid of it at the soonest time possible.

Remove Gasoline Smell from Your Body

Gasoline, composed of harmful chemicals, leaves a pretty strong odor, even at the slightest contact. When it spills on your hands, the stench will remain, unless you use a potent odor - removing solution. As far as the ingredients are concerned, you don't have to leave the kitchen to find the answers. Here are some the items you can use.

• Vanilla - Vanilla may be a good flavor enhancement, but little do some people know, it is also a potent deodorizer. Mix vanilla with a little water. When the solution is ready, apply it on your hands, as if you were washing with liquid soap. Rub your hands upon application until the mixture reduces or removes the smell of gasoline. Use the mixture whenever necessary.
• Vinegar - Vinegar, with its high acidity, is pretty harsh on any type of odor, including gasoline. Soak your hands on the kitchen condiment. Its corrosive ingredients will cut through the odor-producing elements of gasoline upon contact. If car fuel spills onto your hands or any part of your body, just soak it with vinegar. The odor will be gone after a few minutes.
• Lemon - Just like vinegar, lemon is known for its high acidity. Apply lemon juice on your hands or any body part that made contact with gasoline. To maximize its effects, use freshly cut lemon rinds to spread lemon juice on the affected areas. The gasoline smell will eventually fade within a few minutes.

The three natural deodorizers are readily available in most households, so finding them won't be a problem. They can also be applied on your clothes, if ever your shirt or jeans get doused with car fuel. Just use these cooking ingredients whenever you need to remove or control gasoline smell.

Remove Gasoline Smell from Your Car

Dealing with gasoline smell in your car is a bit tricky. Given the size of an automobile's interior, using natural solutions is somewhat wasteful. Your logical recourse is to use commercially available products made to mask or eliminate gasoline fumes. These items are available at any car supply store or hardware. Just purchase the most reputable brands to ensure results.

• Febreze Deodorizer - Febreze has gained quite a reputation for removing every type of odor at the quickest time possible. Spray a liberal amount on your car's interior and it will gradually dissipate the fumes, keeping you safe from their harsh effects. You can also use it for other types of unwanted odors, which makes the spray a definite bang for your buck.
• Ionizer/Air Freshener -Regular air fresheners aren't potent enough to overpower gasoline fumes. The odor should be reduced, as well as masked, if you want to keep your respiratory unscathed. Use an ionizer in conjunction with a powerful air freshener, so the harmful aroma is covered and eliminated. However, be careful when using an ionizer. A damaged item can emit gas, which is just as dangerous as gasoline fumes.
• Leave it to the Mechanic - If gasoline fumes are constantly emitted through the air-conditioning system, deodorizers and ionizers won't be of much help. Prevent your car from being a portable gas chamber by having it checked in a car repair shop. The mechanics can trace the source of the problem and make the necessary repairs. When your car is released, it won't have to worry about gasoline fumes any longer.

Strong fume emissions may also be caused if your engine is flooded with gasoline. Make sure your vehicle is always running in good condition to avoid such a dire scenario.

Remove Gasoline Smell from Your Carpet

When removing gasoline smell from your carpet, you must follow a specific procedure. The carpet's hairy surface traps the odor, making it stay there for extended periods. You will need the combined efforts of two of the most powerful natural deodorizers - vinegar and baking soda.

Materials Needed:

• rag
• baking soda
• white vinegar
• vacuum
• hot water
• 2 mixing bowls

Procedure:

• Use the rag the scrub the spot soaked with gasoline.
• In one bowl, mix some vinegar with hot water.
• Create a baking soda solution in the other bowl.
• Apply the vinegar solution on the affected areas of your carpet.
• Dry the area using a rag or your vacuum cleaner.
• Once done, apply the baking soda solution on your carpet.
• Dry the area using a rag or your vacuum cleaner.
• When your carpet dries, the gasoline smell will be gone.

Aside from removing gasoline smell, you can also use the two solutions for dissipating the smell of mildew and other musty carpet odors. They are your one-two punch for odor removal.

How to Get Rid of Popcorn Ceiling

There was a time when popcorn ceiling was considered a natural form of home styling. People viewed their ripply ceilings as a way to give their homes a classic theme. Stylish as these ceilings are, they can be hazardous to your health. The popcorn effect is caused by the insertion of dust through tiny paint cracks, which creates pockets. Gradually, the pockets increase in size as more dust enters the tiny crevices on your ceiling's surface. When the dust pockets form popcorn-like projections on your ceiling, they can fall at any given moment and mix with your home's breathable air or worse, your meals.

Dust is composed of various particles and most of those particles carry germs. Inhaling or consuming a good amount of dust can spring up various diseases. Clearly, you must get rid of the dust formations on your ceiling before they start causing health problems to you and your family.

Weather Dust with Feathers

The feather duster comes as your basic way of dealing with popcorn ceiling. You can use the feather-based brush to dislodge all of the dust bulges from your ceiling. Since the feather duster is readily available in most homes, the duster is your cheapest dust-cleaning option. The drawback is that using the feather duster is a bit messy and time consuming. You can go for the feather duster if you want to save up on cash for the price of more labor.

Materials Used:

• feather duster
• ladder
• gloves
• goggles
• particle mask
• bundles of newspaper
• Collect Materials

Getting a feater duster is easy since it is available in most home improvement stores and hardware centers. It will only cost you $9 or less for a good feather duster. As for the rest of the materials, they are either readily available or you can borrow them from your neighbors.

Wear Safety Equipment

Wearing gloves, safety goggles and a particle mask are prerequisites when cleaning popcorn ceiling. These items will keep you from taking in harmful dust particles and help you avoid dust-related diseases. The gloves will keep your hands dust-free, while the mask will prevent you from inhaling dust. As for the goggles, they will prevent you from getting eye irritation whenever you dislodge dust popcorn.

Wash Away Dust from Your Body

Lightly brush the dust formations on your ceiling with your feather duster. Be careful with your strokes so that you will remove only the dust and not your ceiling's paint job. Continue brushing until you have removed all the popcorn-like projections from your ceiling.

On a Side Note

Even if you wear a complete set of safety equipment, there is still a remote chance that dust can seep inside your safety gear. Remember that some dust particles are quite small and can fit inside openings that the naked eye cannot see. To make sure that you are safe from dust particles, you can take a nice cool shower right after cleaning your ceiling.

Pave Dust Off Your Ceiling

The feather duster's application process is similar to all of the other options'. You can simply refer to this process for all the succeeding popcorn ceiling remedies.

The Dust Suction Method

The drywall knife is a tiny paving tool built to straighten wall paint jobs and remove popcorn ceiling. Although its application is identical to the feather duster, the drywall knife is more efficient in wiping off dust formations. You can easily dislodge dust bulges on your ceiling with a few precise strokes, which makes the specialized knife a swifter worker than the duster.

You can purchase a drywall knife in any hardware store. It is slightly more expensive than the feather duster but you probably would not mind shelling out a few more dollars to reduce the amount of cleaning time. To get the best models of drywall knives on the market, you can check out the comparison sites and online forums found on the internet. You will see on those websites the lowdown on each brand and model of drywall knives available.

Paint Over Popcorn

The vacuum cleaner appears as a good option when cleaning popcorn ceiling. Through the device's suction nozzle, the vacuum cleaner can suck in significant amounts of dust in a short amount of time. It is easier to use than both the feather duster and the drywall knife since all you have to do is point the nozzle to the dust formations until your entire ceiling is free from dust. Also, the vacuum cleaner is your healthiest option since it prevents dust from scattering to the air and to various portions of your home.

The main drawback wen using a vacuum cleaner is its price. If you do not have a vacuum cleaner, be prepared to shell out about $200 - $500 for a well running unit. Of course, you can borrow a vacuum cleaner from your neighbors but such a large device can be hard to carry around. Lifting the vacuum cleaner when removing dust bulges from high ceilings can also be a problem. You might as well try the other options first if you do not own a vacuum cleaner.

The Verdict

Among the dust removal methods presented, the paint roller provides a rather different angle in dealing with popcorn ceiling. The paint roller covers all the affected areas with a coat of paint instead of rubbing off dust away from your ceiling. This method may be a bit pricey but it is effective in both the prevention and removal of dust particles.

Since dust popcorn is formed through the tiny paint cracks and chips on your ceiling's surface, the paint roller prevents the appearance of dust popcorn by providing a new coat of durable paint. The roller also flattens and empties out dust popcorn through its rolling applicator.

How To Get Rid of Soap Scum

You're organizing a dinner party at home this Saturday night and you want to make sure that all the corners of your house are squeaky clean, especially your bathroom. You are faced with several problems, including the dreaded bathroom enemy of all - soap scum.

For many people, the most challenging bathroom stain to remove is not the toilet stain but soap scum. Removing soap scum looks very simple and easy, but in reality many of us lose our patience when faced with this monumental task.

Armed with a brush and bleach solution, intense scouring is the only known solution to many; however, not all bathroom fixtures can withstand abrasives. The frustrating end result? A bathroom free of soap scum with all the fixtures damaged by abrasions.

Soap scum can be found everywhere in the bathroom. It can be on the sides of the tub, walls, sliding doors, and even on the floor. Soap scum accumulates when people use enough soap to wash the natural oils from their bodies but not enough soap to completely remove everything that spills on the tiles. The fat usually sits on the tile, hardens, and combines with soap molecules to become hard-to-remove scum.

It's crazy to spend so much time getting rid of soap scum. Here are some ingenious ways you can try to eliminate soap scum effortlessly, and prevent it from building up so quickly.

The Ammonia Recipe

Ammonia is a certified scum remover because it dissolves fat that makes up the bulk of soap scum. Don't forget to use gloves when cleaning with ammonia because it can hurt your skin. It's a strong liquid solvent with huge concentrations that can irritate your eyes. You'll need liquid ammonia (for household use), a measuring cup, a spray bottle and a clean towel.

• Make an ammonia solution by mixing one part of ammonia to two parts of water. For instance, if you're using a cup, mix one cup of ammonia with two cups of water.
• Place your ammonia solution in a spray bottle and you can start spraying the solution on the problem areas. You should see the soap scum slowly softening.
• Once you see it breaking apart, wipe the scum off with a piece of rag or towel.
• After the scum is removed, you need to rinse the area thoroughly to make sure the ammonia residue is removed as well.

The Vinegar Method

If in case you cannot find ammonia, you should use a vinegar solution to curb your soap scum dilemma. This time, you'll need vinegar, a spray bottle, a clean towel, a measuring cup and a microwave.

• Measure two cups of vinegar.
• Using your microwave, slightly warm up the vinegar. The vinegar doesn't have to be too hot.
• Pour your warm vinegar in a spray bottle and spray it on the soap scum.
• Allow the vinegar to break down the soap scum by letting it stand for two minutes after spraying.
• You can begin wiping the scum off a few minutes later. Towel dry the area. You can also use a dryer sheet, which is advisable to wipe soap scum off walls.

Borax

Borax may sound a bit geeky, but it's actually just the common scouring powder. It may be a bit tough to use borax to remove plenty of soap scum, but it can be effective for little circles and minute traces. Make sure you use an acrylic scrub sponge to avoid damaging your bathroom fixtures. For better results, rinse the area down with hot water.

Improvised Soap Scum Remover

This is an effective solution to easily scrub soap scum from shower heads, grout, soap holders, and even tiles. To do this, you'll need to mix a variety of substances.

Mix the following ingredients thoroughly in a small basin:

• ½ cup of baking soda
• 1/3 cup of ammonia
• ¼ cup of vinegar
• six cups of water

Directions:

• NEVER add bleach to the mixture because it will react with the ammonia.
• Apply this solution to the problematic areas.
• Start scrubbing with the use of acrylic sponge or a terry cloth. Ammonia can irritate your skin but not so much because six parts of water are involved. It's best if you still wear gloves while doing this.
• After scrubbing all the soap scum off, you don't have to rinse down the area.
• Leave it to dry as it is.

Control The Scum

It's very important to invest some time making sure that soap scum won't build up in your bathroom. Soap scum that sits too long in the bathroom is hazardous to your health. Soap scum also contains your body oil and bacteria that goes with it. After some time, it'll be the breeding grounds of mold and mildew, which can give you skin problems. It can also make your bathroom too slippery for comfort. Follow these two simple tips to prevent soap scum build-up:

• After every shower, take the time to wipe off some soap residue off your tub. Make sure you get everything covered including the sides and the bottom of the tub. This ensures that soap scum build-up will only take place once in a blue moon.
• After removing the soap scum using any of the techniques mentioned above, it is best to apply a layer of furniture wax (like lemon oil).

This is good for two reasons:

• It will place a protective layer over your tiles, preventing soap scum from setting on the area.
• It gives your tiles a nice shine and a fresh scent.

There are also soap scum removers that are commercially available. If you choose to go with a commercial product, make sure that you read and follow the directions carefully. Many people experience frustration because they don't get the best results from the soap scum removers they buy. Follow what's indicated in the packaging. Remember that commercial products tend to be overrated. Using too little or too many of these products won't yield you the best results.

How to Get Rid of Mothball Smell

One of the things that makes shopping for secondhand clothes fun is that you'll never know what you're going to find. Except maybe clothes hangers... and that sharp, heady, headache-inducing scent of mothballs. Whether you get your clothes from the discount store, or remove a winter jacket from the wardrobe, the smell of mothballs can send you to a faint.

Some people are used to the smell of mothballs, although most people are nauseated by the scent. Not only are mothball fumes toxic, but they also don't smell good on clothes that you're going to wear. Some brands and formulas for mothballs are also considered as cancer-causing agents. Rather than walk around town smelling like an old clothes trunk, here are some ways to get rid of that sharp, toxic mothball smell.

What are Mothballs? Mothballs are insecticides and deodorant chemicals packaged into white balls, and are used to preserve clothes from insects like moths, cockroaches, and even rats. Mothballs also help prevent the growth of mold and mildew, which can destroy the fibers of fabrics and textiles. While there are some sprays available on the market that do the job just fine, mothballs are inexpensive and easy to use.

A chemical called naphthalene is the traditional ingredient in mothballs, although it is highly flammable and is a possible carcinogen. Another side-effect of naphthalene is that it can destroy red blood cells. Today's mothballs are made from a chemical called 1,4-dichlorobenzene, which is also used in some insecticide sprays. Some manufacturers try to reduce the pungent smell of mothballs by adding eucalyptus, camphor, menthol, and other ingredients.

Mothballs kill insects and arrest the growth of mold through a process called sublimation, or when a solid dissolves and turns into a gaseous form. During sublimation, the gases formed by many mothballs and mothball pellets build up and kill moths that try to eat through the fibers of clothes. The problem is that the fumes can build up so much that you can get knocked out when you take a deep whiff of it. Clothes packed in mothballs can also cause irritation when worn immediately.

Don't Use Mothballs at All

When you store your summer clothes for the winter, or when you store your winter clothes for the summer, you don't really need to use mothballs. Mothballs are an old-fashioned way to keep clothes fresh during storage. Here are other ways to store clothes without using mothballs:

• Reusable vacuum-sealed clothes bags. Clothes exposed to air can discolor, and are a magnet for mold and insects. Vacuum sealed plastic bags prevent air, mold, and moths from destroying clothes put in storage.
• Sprays. Some stores use sprays that work in the same way as mothballs, which reduces the chances of you fainting from the strong aroma. An insecticide spray also works great for storing clothes, although you need to be careful not to spray it directly on the fabric.
• A cool dry place. If you're not too keen on using chemicals to store your clothes, then you can do it the all-natural way. All you need to do is to store your clothes in a cool, dry place. Make sure that your closet or storage drawer is clean before you store your clothes in it.

Use Mothballs Properly

Some people make the mistake of emptying bags of mothballs into storage drawers or closets, and pack their clothes into the mothballs. Mothballs will not stain, although the sublimation process can literally burn a hole into some fabrics. Older mothball brands made from naphthalene are especially notorious for damaging sensitive fabrics like silk and satin. Mothballs by themselves do not kill moths or prevent the growth of mold. What you really need are the gases formed by mothballs during the sublimation process.

If you do need to use mothballs, follow these simple steps:

1. Place a few mothballs into small plastic jars. Do not use plastic grocery bags, because the thin plastic may literally dissolve.
2. Close the jars, but not too tightly. You still need to have some of the vapors escape from the jar.
3. Store some of the jars with the clothes that you'll store. The gases will build up inside the jars once the mothballs decompose.
4. Once every couple of weeks, open the jars to release the fumes. Make sure you're wearing a face mask or a handkerchief around your face so that you won't faint from the strong odor of the mothballs.

Wash On, Wash Off

Some solid residue from the sublimation process can stick to fabrics, especially for fabrics like silk and wool. Residue builds up around dust and dirt particles. Before you store your clothes and use mothballs, make sure that they're absolutely clean, dry, and free from dust and grime.

Skin irritation and other diseases can be caused when you wear clothes that smell like mothballs. People with sensitive skin can develop rashes, eczema, and dermatitis because of the chemicals and by-products found in mothballs. Do not wear clothes that still smell like mothballs; not only are they irritating, but they're also a major turn-off for people around you.

Removing Mothball Smells in a Pinch

Say you have to attend a cocktail party at 9 in the evening. You really need that fur coat or sport jacket immediately, but you don't have time to wash it. You know it's clean, but there's still the lingering odor of mothballs. Perfume can do a good job at masking mothball smells, but not if you're willing to waste one expensive bottle just to get rid of mothball smells. To remove mothball smells quickly, you'll need the following tools and ingredients:

• Baby powder (preferably unscented)
• Hair dryer
• Fabric softener pads
• Tumble dryer or spin dryer

Follow these easy steps to remove mothball smells in a pinch:

• Rub some baby powder on your clothes.
• Set the hair dryer to medium, and dry out your clothes using it. If you don't have a hair dryer, you can hang out the clothes to dry at a clothesline if you're not in a big hurry.
• Shake out the excess powder.
• Place your clothes in a tumble dryer or spin dryer, with two or three fabric softener pads. Let the clothes spin or tumble dry for about five minutes.

Now that you know how to get rid of mothball smells, you don't have to worry about smelling like an relic of a time long since passed. You can smell fresh and clean all day without having to worry about dizzying smells that come from your clothes again.

How to Get Rid of Skunk Smell in House

Anyone who has smelled skunk from a distance is familiar with the unpleasant odor. No one, however, who has not experienced it up close can imagine the power of such an odor invading a home.

Conventional wisdom may not be enough to guide anyone through how to get rid of skunk smell in house. First, forget the tomato juice trick. It will have only mild effect on pets who have been sprayed, and much more effective agents exist for homes. Besides, following the crisis, you don?t want tomato-colored stains covering the carpet, walls and so on. Baking soda by itself is mostly ineffective as well.

After opening every door and window in the house, obtain a couple of gallons of distilled vinegar. Depending on the severity of the smell, this may be your primary tool for how to get rid of skunk smell in the house. First set out small open bowls of vinegar throughout the house. Follow this by heavily spritzing the entire home with the vinegar using a spray bottle.

If the skunk essence targeted a particular spot in the house or has gotten on people or pets, mix one quart of hydrogen peroxide with a quarter cup baking soda and one tablespoon of liquid detergent or dish soap. This harmless mixture chemically changes the skunk essence into an odorless chemical. Use immediately on the affected area and do not store for later use as the mixture will expand and burst a closed container. While completely safe for humans and dogs, use care when applying the mixture to fabrics as the hydrogen peroxide may cause bleaching.

Initially, avoid use of air fresheners, candles, incense or fragrance oils while you are working on how to get rid of skunk smell in house. Most store-bought brands of odor-eliminating products will be completely ineffective, especially at first. As the skunk smell is eliminated, introducing odor-absorbing products such as fresh air melts from direct sales candle companies will help.

Give the vinegar a few hours to work its magic. If these solutions don?t work, further steps in how to get rid of skunk smell in house will be required. Some cases, may require an ozone machine. For this process, all human and animal residents need to leave the house. When ozone machine rental is required, most homeowner?s insurance policies will cover the cost.

How To Get Rid Of Mildew

Is your house a breeding ground of molds and mildews? Do you find yourself staring at black specks on your ceilings and walls? Are your shoes covered with a musty layer of green coating? If you have observed these things around your house, then you've just entered the stinky world of mold and mildew.

You can say goodbye to all that. With the right equipment and knowledge, you can eliminate these household problems in no time.

The Suspects

Mold and mildew both belong to the fungi family. They thrive in areas that are dark, damp, airless, cold, and sometimes humid. Molds and mildew vary in appearance as they can manifest in thousands of types. However, all molds and mildew have designated missions:

• To devour organic material around them.
• To find areas that have some moisture so that they won't have difficulty using their digestive enzymes.

Common areas with moisture around the house are bathrooms, basements, wardrobes, and steam rooms. They also love to hang out near overflowing washing machines, around roof leaks, wallpaper and drywall backings, kitchen cabinets and sink and areas where severe moisture and flooding are common. They love cellulose-based materials so also grow on draperies, towels, rugs, shower curtains, wood, linen, silk, wool, paper, and leather shoes.

Molds are not plants nor animals. Scientists classify molds as microscopic organisms that contain enzymes and spores. Molds use the enzymes for digesting and decomposing organic materials while the spores are there for reproduction.

Molds have a major role in nature. They decompose dead animals and fallen vegetation. Without them, our planet would be covered with piles and piles of dead stuff. However, they are a nuisance in your household especially if they're chomping at things that destroy the look, smell and structure of your house. Molds and mildew need to devour something to survive and they have a ravenous appetite. Can you imagine how happy they would be if you just let them eat your house?

There are species of molds that only eat everyday dirt and dust that accumulate in any moisture-prone area of your house. These types don't gobble on your home, but they create a horrible and stinky ambiance. These molds mar your walls with growths that resemble spiderwebs and clusters of unsightly black specks. They're very slippery and pose a lot of danger on staircases.

There are only two magic words you need to remember to have a mold and mildew-free life. The two words are treatment and prevention.

Treatment

Before you can actually control mold and mildew, you have to prioritize materials that are already infested.

• Buy a good cartridge-type respirator. You can find these at any medical or safety equipment supplier. Many advise the Willson triple-seal respirators that come with P100 filter cartridges. It's important you get a high-quality respirator because simple dust and particulate masks don't provide adequate protection from harmful spores. Be sure to wear gloves and goggles if you'll be scraping, especially if you're allergic to musty particles. Many people get health problems by ingesting spores during mildew removal. Wear a good respirator.
• If your basement is flooded, it's best if you can get your floor dried up within the first 72 hours to ensure that mold and mildew won't establish themselves upon contact on the floor. Drill some holes in your drywall and take out the lower sections so that the inner walls can dry out as well.
• Before you sort out infested materials, shut down the furnace so that the blower won't get in the way by spreading the dust and spores around your house. You have to temporarily seal the ventilation grills with some duct tape or polyethylene sheeting.
• Relocate furniture, lamps, pictures and virtually anything that can be found inside the room you're working on.
• The door of your working room must be covered. Tape polysheeting on all four edges across the door opening. Create a slit in the middle from top to bottom by using a cutter then tape another flap across the top.
• It's best if you can affix box fans in the window blowing outward.
• Lightly mist insulation, carpets, and other materials by using a garden sprayer containing water and hand-dishwashing detergent.
• It's important to move slowly and deliberately so that you don't stir up more spores while working.
• Make sure that you double-bag and double-wrap the materials you'll be disposing.
• If you're going to scrub hard surfaces, it's use a ½ percent household beach solution.

Prevention

• Simply keep your house clean. Grease and soil provide nourishment for molds and mildew that want to settle down.
• Leaving the wet shower curtain bunched up in one corner is a common mistake. Be sure to dry all damp fabrics before folding them or placing them in the laundry hamper.
• Get some moth balls like Paradichlorine crystals and place them in your closets and wardrobe armoires. Air the garments by placing them under the sun every once in a while during very warm weather.
• Make sure your leather shoes won't be the breeding ground for mildew by coating them with wax. There are also commercial aerosol sprays that are chemically designed to fight dust mold and mildew.
• If possible, change your old ways by using mildew-resistant paint on wood.
• Ensure good ventilation by opening windows if there's a nice breeze outside. It's best if you can buy an electric fan to allow air circulation inside studio-type rooms. You can also open the wardrobe doors and aim the fans to refresh the air inside the cabinets. Make sure your clothes hang loosely and not too close.
• You can resort to chemically-drying the air by using silica gels or anyhydrous calcium sulphates. The key is really just getting rid of dampness because many household activity creates moisture, such as cooking, bathing and laundering. Control dampness to control mold and mildew.
• If your home is tightly sealed, it's best to get mechanical ventilation such as an air-to-air heat exchanger.

Different people have different degrees of tolerance to mildew. Studies show that in the United States, about 10 percent of the population is severely allergic to mold.

Mold and mildew spores are often compared to great basketball players as they both have what they call the “hang time”. Spores can remain suspended in mid-air for hours at a time and too much inhalation can have very hazardous effects on your health.

Stay healthy. Get rid of mold and mildew now.

How To Get Rid of Skunk Smell On Dog

Did your four legged friend recently get sprayed by a skunk? If so, you have come to the right place to learn how to get rid of skunk smell on dog. The easy methods, described below, will help in returning your pooches smell back to normal and make everyones noses a little more happy. It is important to start removing the odor as soon as possible since it will be more difficult to remove the longer it sits. Also, if you can, wash the dog outside or avoid contact with household furniture because the skunk smell can transfer. Remember, as with any bath, it is important to not get bath water or mixture into the dog's eyes or ears because it can cause burning and irritation.

A popular method on how to get rid of skunk smell on dog is the use of a peroxide/baking soda mixture. To make the mixture simply combine 1/4 cup of baking soda, 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide, and 1-2 tsp of dish soap. Using a sponge or washcloth, rub the mixture into the dogs fur and skin throughly and using gentle strokes on the face. Let the solution sit for five minutes, rinse, and then repeat with a new mixture if the smell still lingers. The mixture should always be made fresh, and never stored, because it will weaken and be ineffective at removing skunk odor. It is important to do a thorough final rinse with water to make sure all of the mixture has been removed.

Another answer to how to get rid of skunk smell on a dog is to use commercial products sold at many pet stores and online markets. These products contain microbes and enzymes that break down and destroy the compounds of the skunk musk that cause the strong odor. To aid with the sprays, wipe down your dog after it gets sprayed by the skunk to remove some of the initial spray. Also, if you plan on using commercial products do not use other methods with or directly prior to using the product since other solutions have the potential to interact with and weaken the enzymes. If the solution comes in a spray, spray the product on the body but use a wet cloth or sponge to apply the product around the mouth and eyes. Let the product sit for 5- 10 minutes and then wash with your dogs normal shampoo and dry thoroughly. If the dog still smells, you can repeat the commercial product or try the above method.

Once the skunk smell is removed from your dog you may find he/she smells even better than before!

How to Get Rid of Dandelions

It’s interesting how such a nice looking plant can be so destructive to your lawn and garden. This invasive yellow dandelion often pops up in the middle of your freshly mowed green lawn, or right between the set of tulips you just planted.

Dandelions spread easily across lawns and gardens because of the light seeds they have that carry over to your neighbors from the slightest gust of wind. Unless you can convince your whole neighborhood to get rid of this plant, there’s not going to be an easy way to keep them off your lawn.

In this article, we go over the best ways to get rid of dandelions so that you can bring back the natural green color of your lawn!

1. Pull them out!.

Although pulling dandelions is the most effective way of to get rid of them, it is also the hardest and most time consuming. If you’re dedicated to a having a nice looking lawn, put a day in the weekend aside to get this task done. Once you’re done pulling all of them, you probably won’t want to do anything else for the rest of the day.

Pulling dandelions is best done in the spring before the weed starts its seeding process. You can pull them by using a shovel or trowel, or by special dandelion pulling tools. Using a shovel might dig up more of your yard than you’d like which would cause even more work putting the soil back, so if you’re serious about getting rid of dandelions, you may want to buy a special tool for the job.

When digging, do your best to go as deep as possible and take out the whole root of the weed. If any bit of the root is left behind, it will grow back in a week or so. Not even the most veteran gardeners can always remove every deep root, so check back every few weeks or so to pull out the newly growing dandelions.

2. Have a Grass Cutting Party.

If your neighbor isn’t already reminding you to mow your lawn more often, we’ll do it now for them!
Mowing over the areas of your lawn where dandelions are growing can stop them from getting to their seeding phase and lessens the spread of their growth.

As far as pesky weeds go, dandelions grow back pretty fast. If mowing your lawn is the only gardening you do, you’ll want to do it often to keep them from spreading.

3. Block Out the Sun.

We’re not talking about becoming an evil mastermind here: you want to block out the sun to take away the food source for the weeds. Like most plants, dandelions use photosynthesis to make their own food from the sun. Covering them with mulch or a tarp can block them from getting the food they need and they will eventually die off.

Unfortunately, covering extensive areas of your lawn with a tarp makes your lawn look worse than it did with just the dandelions there. If you think this is the best solution for you, try using a green tarp that would blend in more or spreading grass clippings over your weed covers to make it blend in better.

4. Feed your Lawn the Good Stuff.

Using this strategy to increase your lawn’s health is beneficial in a few ways: you’re going to get a better-looking lawn, and fewer weeds are going to grow on it. Dandelions grow the most in poorly conditioned soil that is highly concentrated in corrosive and acidic substances. By taking good care of your lawn, your grass will grow greener and fewer weeds will make it their home.

Try spreading grass seed or compost over large portions of your lawn. This will make your grass grow greener and keep unwanted weeds away. Even if dandelions do happen to sprout up, your soil should be easier to dig in better conditions, making removal of them a less painful process.

5. Herbicides and Prevention Chemicals.

You can buy chemicals from your local gardening store that are called “pre-emergents,” which stop weeds from growing in the first place. By preventing them from entering the rooting stage, you can get rid of them before they’re even there. These are best applied a few months before the spring, when dandelions typically start growing.

Herbicides are used specifically to kill weeds that have already grown in your lawn. Two specific kinds can be used, one that targets weeds in particular and another that targets any plant it comes in contact with. Before you go all ‘scorched earth’ and spray the second kind all over your lawn, know that this type is usually used for spot dandelion removal. Unless you want to start your yard from scratch, try not to use too much of it over large areas.

The problem with herbicides and “pre-emergents” is that they are often expensive and not very environmentally friendly. In fact, they might be illegal in your area, so always be sure that you know what you are getting into. Use them in moderation to keep your mother nature (and your wallet) happy.

6. Try Using Some Vinegar.

There are also some natural solutions you can try. Spraying already grown dandelions with vinegar can kill weeds directly, or if you really want to get the job done well you can dig out the roots and then spray vinegar where they were pulled out to stop any more from growing. Vinegar is one of the safest solutions for lawn care, so not a lot of caution is needed when applying it.

7. Try Out Some Corn Gluten Meal (CGM).

CGM is an organic pre-emergent that is applied before spring to keep dandelions from growing. It is a very natural and safe solution to put on your lawn, so you won’t have to worry about any pets or toddlers getting too curious about it.

CGM works by stopping the roots of the dandelion from growing during the first stages of growth. It can save you a lot of time and work if you stop the problem from even happening. Important to note is that CGM will not kill off weeds that have already grown, so spread it over your yard early on for the best results.

8. Make a tasty salad.

As unwanted as these weeds are in your lawn, they actually make for pretty good salad additions. The plants are high in vitamin A and potassium, and are also good sources of vitamins C and D, and other nutrients.

To get rid of the bitterness, you can boil or steam the leaves that will leave you with a better tasting green. Try adding dandelion leaves to your salad or sandwich in place of store-bought spinach.

Getting rid of dandelions is no easy task, and will require some work. Prevention is always the best cure, of course. Consider coordinating with your neighbours to see if they will join you in your efforts to get dandelions off of your lawn and out of your life, or you might have trouble keeping them away in the future. Follow whichever steps or combination of ideas discussed above to a dandelion-free lawn, and dandelions will be out of your life before you know it!